Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Koh Yao Noi, Thailand

Koh Yao Noi Town and Camp

I was a bit worried that the island was going to put a dent in my pocket when compared to Tonsai.  I turned out to be totally wrong.  This island was a highlight of my Thailand trip and I would absolutely recommend it to any climber trying to escape the crowds and have a breath of fresh air after the Tonsai experience.  
Around the island, gas is bought from these visible gas pumps.  The gas is first pumped into the glass bulb where it is measured before being dispensed.

Long tail boats are super common in Thailand.  I've posted smaller ones in previous photos, but this one is huge!

Nam Tok Bungalows


The housing was a fraction of the price of Tonsai and twice the quality.  Nice clean bungalows, with proper bathrooms, a great location and even better hosts.  The whole place has a great vibe and relaxing atmosphere.
The outside view of the bungalow I split with Yashin for 300 Baht ($8.50) a night.  These bungalows put the ones in Tonsai to shame.
View looking out from the front porch.


It doesn't get much nicer than this!
Big Tree Wall

We had a crazy first day in Ko Yao Noi! We managed our way to the crag after a mental approach through a jungle that involved slightly smashing my scooter on a heinous back road, scaring Yashin and getting turned around on more than one occasion. In the end, everything was great! 

We still managed to pull off 6 pitches, including a 120 meter multi-pitch, on some of the best rock in South East Asia. Easily the most serene secluded climbing I've ever done. We even got to see some sweet jungle animals including a 6 foot long Monitor Lizard stomping about! 

A slightly wonky ankle, a little bit of dehydration and some type 2 fun definitely made for a day to remember!

Dan heading up a chossy fixed rope while looking for the crag.

The four pitches of Sea Gypsy 6b+.  The nicest multi-pitch sport route I have ever done.

2nd to last pitch!  Thanks Raul for one of the best pictures ever taken of me.

120 meters down!

On the rough approach I ended up smashing my motorbike with Yashin on the back.  Going up a steep dirt road with a ton of weight on the back of the bike was not a good idea.  Halfway up the hill we did a wheelie and flipped the bike right over.  The crash resulted in a cracked motor housing/oil pan and a variety of broken mirrors and lights.  In the end the damages did not cost much and nobody was hurt!

Grateful Wall

After the rough approach the first day we decided it was worth it to take a boat directly to the crag. Definitely an all around better idea.  In a quarter of the time we made it to Grateful Wall where every route is named after a Grateful Dead tune!  Not only was the crag named after one of my favorite bands, it was also the best easy/moderate single pitch climbing that I have ever done.  Amazing crag.

Heading to the crag in the morning.
Yashin!

Jim working his way up.



Hey look! It's Jojo!



Tonsai Pt. 2

The second half of my stay in Tonsai, Thailand!  Another compilation of photos including some climbing, our housing and some other random sights along the way!

View from Railay West Beach.

Jungle Huts

Our Jungle Hut Bungalow.  For the majority of our time this was where Yashin and I stayed.  Our feet may have occasionally blown through the floorboards, there were monkeys and bats in the ceiling, the bathroom was questionable at best, and the mosquitoes were big enough to take a pint of blood; but it was our home!

The outside view of our bungalow.

Our porch.  A really great place to relax in a hammock, wash some clothes or get in a quick workout after climbing.  

I wish this picture could do more justice for how bad this bathroom actually was.  No toilet seat, the sink ran on the floor, huge mosquitoes, and the water occasionally came out brown.  There was also a thick layer of brown coating the floor which led to a week of playing an improvised version of the floor is lava. Not my favorite.
Climbing

We spent one of the days climbing in Defile in Railay.  It was a nice place to escape some of the usual crowds and get a solid amount of climbs in. 
Stacia and Nick








On belay! 

Tricky start to a random 6c.

Nick stemming his way up a unique chimney on Defile Exit.
Street Art & The Wall

Everyone who visits Tonsai is familiar with "the Wall".  Years ago the majority of Tonsai had been purchased by a Bangkok based realtor.  The purchase pushed all of the local businesses to relocate from beach front property to the jungle.  Around the property a 2 meter wall has also been erected. Definitely a controversial move.  Many people think that the wall has ruined the vibe of Tonsai, while others fear the creation of a resort may be the end of an era.

Today, artists paint some amazing street art and it can be seen around the entire perimeter of the wall.

The third eye.  Most likely influenced by the psychedelic mushrooms offered openly at any bar in the area.
The town is filled with cute kittens.

Random

Just some random shots from around the town!

The Viking Bar.  Get a beer and practice the slackline...Or just watch the show.  Some of the locals were the most talented slackliners I have ever seen.  Here is one of the workers spinning fire while on the line.

Beautiful sky while on the hike back to camp. 
The best kebab in all of the land.  Made by an Australian who takes pride in his wrap and does everything he can to give a fresh product.  One of the few safe places to eat for anyone trying to avoid the Tonsai Tummy.

During sunset, the mosquitoes come out with a vengeance forcing anyone sensitive to either lather on the bugs pray or retreat under the mosquito net.  Unfortunately, these bugs were one of the main reasons why I couldn't stay for an extended period of time.  They would drive me crazy. This is a picture of the mosquitoes killed after just a minute sitting outside while unprotected.
Walking to the speedboat towards Koh Yao Noi!  Super glad that I decided to go through with this last minute decision.

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Tonsai, Thailand


Tonsai beach in Southern Thailand is a climbers paradise.  Travelers of all sorts are everywhere.  Lots of hippies, climbers and regular tourists in every direction.  It has a music festival vibe with a very free environment where you can do to do as you please.  During the day everyone leaves the village to go climb, and at night everyone comes back to fill the restaurants and reggae bars.  It can be hard to get the motivation to climb, but once you do it's amazing.  All and all, a really fun place place with awesome vibes all around.
Photo of Railay Beach taken from the top of Candle Stick 6b+.
One of the many golden orb spiders seen all around South East Asia.  They are huge and can grow to be nearly the size of your hand!  Luckily they are not dangerous and about as poisonous as a bee sting.  Also, these huge spiders are entirely females, the males are 100th the size and can hardly be photographed.  They are often near the female somewhere in the web.
These monkeys live a great life.  On a beautiful beach where they are free to steal whatever they please from unsuspecting tourists.
A monitor lizard! These things are huge.  They're so large I thought I saw my first Komodo Dragon, but this is a very close relative.

Slackline after a day of climbing. 


Nick on the line.

Sunset seen every night from Tonsai Beach.

The warning sign. The Tonsai Tummy is an infamous stomach bug that manages to hit nearly anyone who spends over two weeks on the beach. No one knows where it comes from, if its a virus or if its bacterial. 

Dinner from Green Restaurant.  BBQ corn, chicken and vegetables with a side of salad.  Tastes great and I haven't gotten sick yet!

Yashin checking the guide book while on the way up Candlestick.

Nick climbing through the third pitch of Humanality 6b+, a classic multi-pitch climb here.  Arguably the most exposed climbing I have ever done.  I'm already looking forward to trying it again.

Yashin hanging out in a cave.

Long way down!